Porto Palermo: Castle, Bay and What to See on the Riviera

Where Porto Palermo sits on the Riviera

The bay opens off the Ionian Sea in Vlorë county, on the stretch of coast that runs south from Himarë towards Qeparo. The castle, known locally as Kalaja e Porto Palermos, lies just west of the SH8 road, so you turn off the coastal route and park almost at the water. Because the bay sits between the two villages, it slots easily into a drive along the Albanian Riviera rather than demanding a day of its own.

The castle: a triangle in the bay

The castle has a triangular plan, with large bastions at each corner, and its interior works as a maze of rooms and hallways rather than a single courtyard. It was originally built on an island about 30 metres from the mainland, and a narrow isthmus was later created to link the two, which is why you now walk across to it rather than take a boat. Inside, the north-east bastion held a prison, and the rest of the interior housed a garrison.

The usual attribution is that Ali Pasha of Ioannina built the castle in 1804, though some accounts hold that he rebuilt an earlier fortification, possibly of Venetian origin. A local legend credits French military engineers with the design and says they were killed once the work was finished; treat that as legend rather than history. The castle stayed in active use through the Second World War and Albania's communist era, which explains how much of the structure survives to walk through.

Walking the walls and the interior

Most of the visit is spent inside the walls, moving between the rooms and corridors, then climbing to the ramparts for views across the enclosed bay and out to the open sea. The walk is uneven and partly unshaded, so grippy shoes and water matter more than a plan. There is an entry charge, described as small; check the figure on the board at the gate before you commit, since it is not published in the sources used here.

The beach below the castle

On the edge of the bay sits a small beach that visitors use for sunbathing and swimming, with calm water inside the shelter of the headland. The bay is quiet compared with the larger beaches around Himarë, and boats sometimes stop there for a short break because conditions hold steady. Come prepared: this is a short shoreline rather than a developed resort, so there are no facilities to rely on beyond what you bring.

The shallow water near the shore suits families with children, while slightly deeper sections appeal to stronger swimmers, and the surrounding hills give some natural shade. It is a good pairing with the castle because you can dry off while walking the walls, or climb first and cool down afterwards.

The Porto Palermo Tunnel

North of the castle, on the bay shore, stands an abandoned submarine base known as the Porto Palermo Tunnel, built between the 1960s and 1980s under the communist state. It is a plain, sobering piece of Cold War infrastructure rather than an attraction with facilities, and it sits within sight of the beach. Look at it from the shore or the road; do not assume it is open or lit inside.

Getting there: driving and minibuses

By car, Porto Palermo is roughly a 10 to 15 minute drive south of Himarë along a paved, signposted coastal road, with parking close to the shoreline. From Sarandë the run down the SH8 takes roughly three hours, so it makes more sense as a stop on the way than a there-and-back trip. Arriving earlier in peak season gives you a better chance of a parking space, and the walk from the car park to castle and beach is short and on a gentle incline.

Public transport on this stretch is limited: minibuses run between Himarë and nearby beaches, but a car or taxi gives far more flexibility for stopping at the castle and continuing to Qeparo. If you are relying on a minibus, confirm the return pickup with the driver before you are dropped, because the bay has no transport hub of its own. The Albanian Riviera map is useful for judging the distances between Himarë, Porto Palermo and the villages further south.

How long to allow

A quick stop for the castle alone takes under an hour, including the walk across the isthmus and a circuit of the walls. Add swimming and you are looking at half a day, especially if you also walk north to see the submarine tunnel. If your Albanian Riviera itinerary is tight, treat Porto Palermo as the bridge between Himarë and Qeparo and give it two to three hours rather than a full day.

The castle and the beach work well in either order: climb in the cooler part of the morning, then swim, or swim first and walk the walls as the light softens. The bay is small enough that you will not need to move the car between the two.

When to go

May to September brings the warm weather and calm sea that make the bay work for swimming, with July and August the busiest months. Mornings and late afternoons are quieter in high summer, and spring or early autumn gives you the same pleasant conditions with far fewer people. These are general seasonal patterns, not a forecast.

What to combine nearby

Qeparo, a few minutes further south, pairs naturally with Porto Palermo: the old hill village and the beach below make a contrast with the castle and the enclosed bay. North of Himarë, the road climbs towards Llogara Pass and the Ceraunian Mountains, a scenic drive that many travellers tackle on the same day.

Borsh, further down the coast towards Sarandë, has its own village, castle and long shoreline if you are stringing together several stops on the Riviera. It makes a sensible next leg if you are heading south rather than doubling back to Himarë.

Practical points before you set out

Most tourist itineraries along this coast include Porto Palermo as a break in the bay, and boats often pause there, so if you are on a boat tour, confirm whether you actually land and visit the castle or simply stay offshore. Carry cash for the entry fee and enough water for the walk, and do not count on facilities around the bay beyond the beach itself.

Should Porto Palermo be a stop or a day?

Make Porto Palermo a stop on the Himarë–Qeparo run unless you want a full beach day with the castle attached. The castle justifies the detour on its own, the bay gives you a calm swim, and both fit comfortably into a couple of hours. If you are driving the SH8, build it into the Albanian Riviera itinerary rather than treating it as a separate excursion.